The Sorcerer’s Lung

In 2019, I volunteered to assist ecologists and primatologists in the second largest tropical forest in the world, located in northern Congo at the junction of Cameroon and Central African Republic, in the mystical park of Nouabalé-Ndoki. Researchers, indigenous Baka, foresters, gorillas, chimpanzees, elephants and poachers coexist there and sometimes confront each other in one of the densest and most diverse ecosystems on the planet.

To the sound of Babenzele polyphonies and the breath of life and death of the primary forest, this world appeared to me alternately as the most brutal chaos and as a subtle balance, where roads are traced by elephant migrations, where ants inspire fear, where magic and sorcery rub shoulders with science as a grid for reading the world.

In the face of the anguish caused by the ecological disasters foretold, I have drawn inspiration from those eclectic encounters and my experience in the field to translate the amazement procured by this universe in which so many different cultures and divergent interests meet.

Here are some chosen pieces I hope will bring you there.

A tracker is watching at a group of colobus monkeys watching us. Walking in the jungle in silence implies being careful to every move and noise from ground level to the canopy. The point is to prevent us from surprising a grumpy forest elephant during his lunch, which can turn into a very unpleasant encounter. This basic security measure helps us to enter a sort of flow, allowing us to pay a better attention to our surroundings.

To go to one of the observation camps from the base of Bomassa involves getting a little wet. On the way to Mondika, we crossed a swamp with water at knee level. Sun rays through the leaves reveal a patchwork of colors that reminded me of Caribbean amber rum, from blood red to ochre yellow, fluctuating at every step and reflection on the water.

The forest of Congo is home to the most important number of big mammals in the world. But it is actually some of the smallest animals, termites, who build enormous mounds  on which grow some of the world’s biggest trees, some up to 60 meters tall.

The camp of Mondika is surrounded by three known groups of lowlands gorillas. They have been slowly accustomed to the presence of humans, mostly tracker and researchers; enough to be followed and observed but still wild and not to be approached closer than 7 meters. “The loud voice” - Kingo ya Bole - is a male leading one of the groups. Studied individuals are named by the trackers who identify them.

Facing Bomassa, on the other shore of the river, is Cameroun. In the morning, when the jungle’s roar begins to fade, fishermen start their day. Their light paddle strokes down the stream give the tempo to the insect and bird sounds. They are the only thing disturbing the mirror glassed reflection of the massive wall of trees on the ochre river.

Part of conservation work in the forest of Congo consists in helping local authorities with the fight against poaching and illegal trade of wildlife. Observations made by plane are of great help to local teams of rangers to spot poachers camp and apprehend them. Flying at low altitude over the canopy inspires a similar feeling as sailing in the ocean. Leaks of fire smoke, the same as oil spills.

After a day following gorillas’ tracks, shower and laundry occur in the same stream by the camp of Mondika. Thousands of butterflies, from cyan red to turquoise blue, gather around the same water point giving a surprisingly Disney-like aspect to the forest. Not far from here in Central African Republic, Ba’aka women are complementing the laundry with polyphonic singings and playing drums on the water, in a mesmerizing symphony.


 

My deepest gratitude to the Congolese people, the Wildlife Conservation Society and the Fondation Nouabale-Ndoki for their friendship and hospitality.


 

Contact me for prints or collaboration

 

Limited prints available to ship internationally: https://art-gentiers.com/boutique/georges-saladin/

 

saladin.georges@gmail.com
13 rue Léon Dominique,
33680, Lacanau-Océan. France