2°12′N 16°11′E

Nouabale-Ndoki

En 2019, je me suis porté volontaire pour aider les écologistes et les primatologues de la deuxième plus grande forêt tropicale du monde, située au nord du Congo à la jonction du Cameroun et de la République centrafricaine, dans le parc mystique de Nouabalé-Ndoki. Chercheurs, Babenzele, forestiers, gorilles, chimpanzés, éléphants et braconniers y cohabitent et s'affrontent parfois dans l'un des écosystèmes les plus denses et les plus diversifiés de la planète.

Au son des polyphonies Babenzele et du souffle de vie et de mort de la forêt primaire, ce monde m'est apparu tour à tour comme le chaos le plus brutal et comme un subtil équilibre, où les routes sont tracées par les migrations des éléphants, où les fourmis inspirent la peur, où la magie et la sorcellerie côtoient la science comme grille de lecture du monde.

Face à l'angoisse provoquée par les catastrophes écologiques annoncées, je me suis inspiré de ces rencontres éclectiques et de mon expérience sur le terrain pour traduire l'étonnement procuré par cet univers où se rencontrent tant de cultures différentes et d'intérêts divergents.

Voici quelques morceaux choisis qui, je l'espère, vous y amèneront.

A tracker is watching at a group of colobus monkeys watching us. Walking in the jungle in silence implies being careful to every move and noise from ground level to the canopy. The point is to prevent us from surprising a grumpy forest elephant duri… — A tracker is watching at a group of colobus monkeys watching us. Walking in the jungle in silence implies being careful to every move and noise from ground level to the canopy. The point is to prevent us from surprising a grumpy forest elephant during his lunch, which can turn into a very unpleasant encounter. This basic security measure helps us to enter a sort of flow, allowing us to pay a better attention to our surroundings.

To go to one of the observation camps from the mother base of Bomassa implies to wet the shirt a little. On the way to Mondika, we crossed a swamp with water at knee level. Sun rays through the leaves reveal a patchwork of colors that reminded me of… — To go to one of the observation camps from the base of Bomassa involves getting a little wet. On the way to Mondika, we crossed a swamp with water at knee level. Sun rays through the leaves reveal a patchwork of colors that reminded me of Caribbean amber rum, from blood red to ochre yellow, fluctuating at every step and reflection on the water.

The forest of Congo is home to the most important number of big mammals in the world. But it is actually some of the smallest animals, termites, who build mounds that contribute to shape small hills on which grow among the world’s biggest trees, som… — The forest of Congo is home to the most important number of big mammals in the world. But it is actually some of the smallest animals, termites, who build enormous mounds on which grow some of the world’s biggest trees, some up to 60 meters tall.

The camp of Mondika is surrounded by three known groups of lowlands gorillas. They have been slowly accustomed to the presence of humans, mostly tracker and researchers. Enough to be followed and observed but still in the wild and not to be approach… — The camp of Mondika is surrounded by three known groups of lowlands gorillas. They have been slowly accustomed to the presence of humans, mostly tracker and researchers; enough to be followed and observed but still wild and not to be approached closer than 7 meters. “The loud voice” - Kingo ya Bole - is a male leading one of the groups. Studied individuals are named by the trackers who identify them.

Facing Bomassa, on the other shore of the river, is Cameroun. On the morning, when the jungle’s roar begin to fade, fishermen start their day. Their light paddle strokes down the stream, pacing the “remenent” jungle’s yellings, are the only thing di… — Facing Bomassa, on the other shore of the river, is Cameroun. In the morning, when the jungle’s roar begins to fade, fishermen start their day. Their light paddle strokes down the stream give the tempo to the insect and bird sounds. They are the only thing disturbing the mirror glassed reflection of the massive wall of trees on the ochre river.

Part of conservation work, in the forest of Congo, consist in helping local authorities with the fight against poaching and illegal trade of wildlife. Observations made by plane are of great help to local teams of rangers to spot poachers camp. — Part of conservation work in the forest of Congo consists in helping local authorities with the fight against poaching and illegal trade of wildlife. Observations made by plane are of great help to local teams of rangers to spot poachers camp and apprehend them. Flying at low altitude over the canopy inspires a similar feeling as sailing in the ocean. Leaks of fire smoke, the same as oil spills.

After a day following gorillas’ tracks, shower and laundry occur in the same source by the camp of Mondika. Thousands of butterflies, from cyan red to turquoise blue, gather around the same water point giving a surprisingly disney-like aspect to the… — After a day following gorillas’ tracks, shower and laundry occur in the same stream by the camp of Mondika. Thousands of butterflies, from cyan red to turquoise blue, gather around the same water point giving a surprisingly Disney-like aspect to the forest. Not far from here in Central African Republic, Ba’aka women are complementing the laundry with polyphonic singings and playing drums on the water, in a mesmerizing symphony.

My deepest gratitude to the Congolese people, the Wildlife Conservation Society and the Fondation Nouabale-Ndoki for their friendship and hospitality.

Contactez-moi.

georgessaladin.art@gmail.com